Fresh Air

Antarctica: Voyage of Discovery in Retrospect

I am often at a loss as to how to end a spectacular journey.  Is it best to end with a bang, or a whimper?  Perhaps instead a quiet whisper; a slightly paler version of the technicolor experiences that have gone before, to ease the transition back to reality with less of a full camera cut and more of a gentle, telescopic slide back towards reality.

We've been privileged to traverse the Antarctic Peninsula from several remarkably unique landing points.  The stark and unrelenting beauty of this untameable land is seared in my mind.  Courting block-long glaciers; playing hide-and-seek with mountain-tops emerging from shrouded depths of miles of ice; tracing the geology of the ages in beach sand and rubble... Face to face with the primal nature of this continent and its denizens, I feel both awed and humbled.

The southern end of the earth is its own last, best miracle.  I feel honored to have touched its face, and walked its lands.  Coupled with the multi-sensory experience of standing toe to toe, flipper and wing with a wide variety of penguins, seals and birds, I know now what it is like to curiously explore the ways and means of another species, with wonder and without fear.

I'll detail more fully each environment and its inhabitants, preferably before the daily experiences of this life rob me of the memories of what it was like to be in and part of another world.

If you have the chance to go, you should.  Don't wait - special places have a tendency to change, and generally not for the better.  Eco-tourism aside - it's a very delicate balance, and not one I am certain we can maintain.  Go - it's one of the best things I've ever had an opportunity to experience, and one you would not, for a moment, regret. 

Drake Lake - Day 5

This trip is fantastic.  Upon arrival in Buenos Aires, Alan and I went for a swim, followed by a spectacular lunch in one of their finest restaurants.  That evening, we attended a very sensual tango performance.  The Argentinians take their tango very seriously, and we saw several different (but equally sexy) styles during the dinner show.  As a city, BA is a cross between Paris and NY...filled with style and well dressed people.  It's also a bit dirty, and the pollution is bad, but I'd like to return to explore it further.

The following morning, we traveled by charter to Ushuai, located in Patagonia.  It's a small but thriving city and has benefited greatly from the extensive tourism opportunities that have arisen from interest in visiting Antarctica.  Alan and I rented a car, and spent the afternoon hiking in the mountainous region that abuts right against Chile.  Alan went for a plunge in the icy lake water but I was happy enough to take pictures.

We boarded the Nordnorge in the afternoon, got settled in our cabin and more or less hit the hay right after dinner.  For an expedition boat, the Nordnorge is very well appointed and comfortable.  We've been at sea now for two days, crossing the Drake Passage.  According to the Captain, the 600 mile section separating S. America and Antarctica is usually much more tumultuous, but we're having a very gentle crossing.  When it is like this, they call the passage "Drake Lake."  I cannot tell you how thankful I am for the calm, as I am just getting my sea legs under me now.

This afternoon, we'll be landing on Half Moon Island, home to some ungodly number of Chinstrap penguins.  The briefing this morning was enough to scare the bejesus out of you, what with fur seals that bite and baby penguins too curious for their own good.  Nonetheless, there is a boat full of people that are anxious to view these wonderful creatures "up close and persona" as they say.

More later, but we're off to a good start! 

I Love You Thiiiiis Much!

This is a gentoo penguin; one of the many life forms I'll be seeing shortly as I abandon the cause at home and take wing (hopefully with slightly more loft than this fellow can generate) and head southwards to Antarctica.

Yes, the business is sleeping.  Yes, the house is going on the market.  Yes, I am so tired of packing and cleaning I could just scream.  But I know a secret, and that secret is that as of about 8:30 am on Wednesday, I'll be on a plane to Buenes Aires and all of normal life as I currently know it will be a pleasant memory for the next three weeks.

Our route will be quite exciting - and if you're interested you can take a peek at the itinerary at   http://www.norwegiancoastalvoyage.com/tours_antarctica3.asp.  The good news is things start out with a bang, as we're attending an Evening of Tango our first night in South America.  Hopefully, this will really be a performance, without the audience participation such events sometimes encourage.  Its been years since I've danced, and though I still harbor deep hopes that Alan will one day want to learn, it isn't on the current agenda and I'm sure that I've grown two left feet in the interim.

I'll have Internet connectivity on board ship, and will try and post a bit of this and that as we journey across Drake Passage and into the heart of Antarctica.  The trip should provide a much needed break from all that has gone before us most recently, and a refreshing opportunity to hit the ground running upon our return.

I wish you all well in my absence, and Bon Chance!